Rokuon-ji, aka Kinkaku-ji (the Golden Pavilion) alongside Kyōko-chi (Mirror pond). The top two floors are entirely covered in Gold.It all started with a train. Upon leaving work on Saturday night it was a race to get to Tokyo Station to catch the last available Shinkansen (express bullet train) heading into the Kyoto area. Kyle was situated in the west end of Tokyo that night, so we made arrangements to rendez-vous on the Nozomi 161 which would leave Tokyo at exactly 9:20 pm. Unreserved seats cost about 1500 yen less, but it is what it sounds like; there is no guarantee for a seat once you board the train. It wasn't too big of a problem for me since Tokyo was the initial station of departure but Kyle had to get on at Shin-Yokohoma, which was another two stops away. We took a chance and got unreserved seats for the journey and I managed to save him a seat by ignorantly placing my suitcase beside me. Just as he boarded I threw my suitcase up on the overhead and we were ready to roll out.
The distance from Tokyo to Kyoto is appoximately 513km, roughly the same distance from Toronto to Montreal. The train ride took exactly 2 hours and 11 minutes (as advertised) from leaving Tokyo to arriving at Kyoto Station. For those who are curious the Shinkansen pushes speeds of up to 300km/h when not travelling in city areas. I believe the trip would have been even faster had the train not stopped at four other stations before arriving to Kyoto.
While on the train Kyle and I tore it up with our DS's and assuredly annoyed the commuters around us who were trying to fall asleep. Contra wasn't the same without music so we had to have a little volume. The same goes for Tetris and Mario Kart.
So what's the big deal about Kyoto? It serves as a huge preserved historic city since the landscape and architecture wasn't directly destroyed by the bombings and air assaults from the United States during WW II. There are temples and castles all over Japan, however most of them have been re-built due to the damage inflicted upon the air raids. Kyoto for the most part remained unharmed, but the downtown core of the city has definitely taken favour to the modernization of buildings and facilities.
We met up with Lydia and Althea at Hanazono station. They were kind enough to reserve a large room to accommodate all of us at Shunkō-in, the Zen Buddhist temple that is also a hostel for travelling tourists. This temple also served as a sanctuary for Japanese followers of Christianity from 1603 - 1867, when the religion was banned in Japan. The monks would hide crosses in grave stones and other symbols resembling Christ in wall paintings or statues. I actually found this bit of information of the temple to be very intriguing. Shunkō-in also offers a Zazen-kai (Zen meditation session) but Kyle and I had to pass on it since we were short on time. The girls however, thoroughly enjoyed it.
A mini scaled version of the Garden containing the fifteen rocks.Ryōan-ji is well known for its simple yet remarkable Rock Garden which was laid out at the end of the 15th century. The precision behind the layout of the fifteen rocks in the garden have inspired Zen-like philosophical meditation for centuries.
Why is the garden so special? From what I gathered the rocks were intended to be systematically laid out so that from all adjacent ground viewing angles, only fourteen of the fifteen rocks could be visible. In other words no matter where you view the garden from one rock would always be hidden. It is said that upon achieving a state of true enlightenment through years of Zen meditation all fifteen rocks can be visible.
Another interpretation reveals that since man can never truly obtain perfection one can never be able to see all fifteen rocks simultaneously. This coincides with man's pursuit of happiness (Happyness); no matter how hard he tries an eternal state of bliss cannot be met. One will always be pursuing and working towards happiness but can never be completely satisfied. Pondering upon this made me want to re-watch Sony's production of "The Pursuit of Happyness" with everyone's favourite Will Smith. For those of you who have yet to see it, the film is definitely worth your while. Perhaps I'll torrent it later.
Unfortunately the flaw of the garden is that there actually lies a spot from the edge where all fifteen rocks are visible. Kyle and I stood in it and the tour guide himself said that you can manage to view all fifteen if you look carefully. Kyle is working on a panoramic stitch of the entire garden, hopefully it will be completed soon and I'll be able to post a link to it.
Kinkaku-ji was the next memorable stop and I finally comprehend as to what all the hype was about. Since I started teaching all of my students whose English level is high enough continually ask me where I want to travel while in Japan (Kyoto being one of the many places). Among these students, every single one of them has told me that I absolutely have to visit this temple if I travel to Kyoto.
The upper two floors are entirely covered in pure gold and serve for the ultimate visual eye candy for tourists from all over the world. Most of the temples I've visited have been filled with a larger amount of Japanese locals than tourists. Kinkaku-ji on the other hand was clustered with "gaijin" from everywhere. With that being said there was a group of Mandarin speaking tourists who were being completely rude and loud, somewhat dampening the glory of the temple itself.
While the viewing areas of temples and shrines close at dusk it was time to find another point of interest. Shijō Kawaramachi is a popular part of central Kyoto where the scenery at night is entirely lit up from the lights and signs of department stores during day and night hours. Perhaps the most surprising thing I abosrbed was just how modernized the downtown core of the city is. I was honestly expecting a cultural preserved landscape throughout the entire area but I was clearly wrong. A lot of the downtown street atmosphere here made me feel that I hadn't even left Tokyo.
There were many restaurants and bars overlooking the river that looked mighty impressive at night. It's a little hard to notice but they people sitting outdoors on the patio are all seated on wood floorboards or tatami mats. What a kickass ambience to drink and enjoy a meal with friends.
Our intended plan for the next day was to get an early start at 6:30 am to head out to some other nearby temple and shrine areas. This wasn't even close to happening since the four of us sat outside a train station getting slightly intoxicated the night before. We had a really long day and it was decided that drinks were long overdue. With this being said, I don't think we ventured out until 9 in the morning.
When we finally gathered our composure we took the train a few stops west over to Arashiyama. Nonomiya Shrine is well-known for its large bamboo forest area and in my opinion it didn't fail to impress. It was like looking into something straight out of a traditional Chinese/Japanese martial arts movie. I totally expected ninjas to be jumping through the trees with flying sound effects.
Unfortunately this was the last temple area I visited before my time was up in Kyoto. I decided to take the 8 hour bus ride back home since it costs half the amount as a Shinkansen train. I'll probably head back to Kyoto one weekend, or over a holiday I have before leaving Japan. Winter season so far has the vote since the scenery becomes even more scenic with a touch of snow.
Leaving Kyoto StationMy bus departure from Kyoto Station was at 12:20 pm on Monday afternoon. Since I knew it was going to be a lengthy excursion back home I loaded up on snacks and drinks before boarding. There were a few guys ahead of me who fully had like five grocery bags full of junk food, including various alcoholic beverages. Somedays I forget that in this country it's perfectly fine to consume alcohol virtually anywhere.
The actual bus was a double-decker with the majority of the seating area on the upper level. Problem for some is that the roof is only about 6 feet high and there could have been more leg room to stretch out. I wasn't brave enough to check out the washroom either, something I don't regret at all.
Other accommodations included a JR branded pair of slippers and a surprisingly comfortable blanket. Each seat also had the ability to recline into an almost 180 degree sleeping position. A foot rests are also installed on the bus and the overhead area provides a tiny but surprisingly powerful air conditioning vent. You can also draw the curtains from the window seats to block out the sunlight in the event you want to doze off. While it sounds somewhat luxurious it was a little difficult for me to fall asleep. The ride was kinda wobbly and it was hard to find a comfortable position for a sufficient amount of time. Still, not bad at all considering the price of the ticket.
I arrived back at Tokyo Station at about 8:06 pm. From there it's about another 40 minutes getting back to my local train station. I felt rather accomplished journeying outside with friends and getting safely back in one piece. Not losing my luggage was an added bonus! Overall, definitely a great weekend and perhaps the nicest area I've been to in Japan to this date.